![]() ![]() The single most important item I discovered with any surface is bed leveling and nozzle height. The first layer needs to be smashed onto the build surface, if it's not being laid down oval it will never stick. ![]() Try cleaning the surface with denatured alcohol and if that doesn't do it try acetone. ABS on BuildTak was sticking almost too well, it was a bear to remove the print and the reason I ended up destroying it. So far the PEI seems to be working and once it has cooled down the parts are fairly easy to remove.Īlmost forgot, my printer is not in an enclosure but is in a warm office with little air movement. I also have a Cetus and, so far, I have only tried printing with PLA. I do have a reel of ABS and plan to use it soon. I also had a failure of my first somewhat larger object to adhere to the build plate. It's base was about 3" x 5" and one corner simply lifted off the plate.Ĭetus advertises that it's printer does not have to be leveled. So, Cetus, which claims it does not need to be leveled, has a screen/function just for that. I used the readings I got at the nine points across the build plate to shim the build plate to make it physically level. I think the Cetus allows you to enter values for these nine points so the "leveling" is accomplished in the software, but I prefer it to be physically as close as possible first. I haven't had any more failures since I added that shim.Ĭetus does not explain this very well. Their instructions and other information leaves a LOT to be desired. PS: I used aluminum foil for the shims between the plate and the mounting surface that it screws down to. I did the math and wound up with two thicknesses at one of the screw locations, one thickness at two others and none at the fourth. I haven't checked the flatness of the several plates that I have, but I suspect that it may vary so different shims may be needed for different plates.Īlmost forgot, my printer is not in an enclosure but is in a warm office with little air movement.I've not heard about BuildTak or PEI. Did some research and looks like PEI would be the way to go. I suspect that ALL 3D printers DO need to be leveled. Leveling refers to making the build plate as perpendicular to the vertical axis of the printer as possible. It certainly needs to be within a few thousandths over the print area. And that would be the area of the mat if you use one. They really don't, at least, any more than the first time, and IMHO that should be done at the factory. The whole fixation with bed leveling in the 3D printing community is laughable coming from a machining perspective, because the entire necessity for bed leveling is due to the unnecessary design compromises made by the designers of 3D printers, and I think that's a consequence of where the impetus of consumer 3D printing came from - it was primarily driven initially from the electronics and software end of the design world, where the mechanical realities didn't match up to the expectations of what electronics and software could compensate for. ![]()
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